Crochet Raglan Sweater: One Easy Way to a Happy Fit
A crochet raglan sweater is worked from the neck down in one piece, with no sewing at all, and this one needs only a hook, two colours of yarn and double crochet. You chain a neck, join it into a ring, and let four corners grow the yoke round by round until the front and back meet under your arms. The pattern below gives every step with a photo, a table that turns your own neck measurement into stitch counts, and three other free raglan sweaters to compare.
What makes this crochet raglan sweater easy: the whole size comes from one number. You measure your head, because the sweater has to pull on over it, and choose a neck chain that is a multiple of 6. The creator chains 78 for a 23 in head, then divides by 6 to get every section. The same method works for any size, and the sweater has no shaping rows to read apart from a repeated corner.
The counts come from the creator’s spoken instructions and from the sketch drawn on the page. A few numbers are not stated, so we worked them out and mark them as ours. The size table is our own arithmetic and was not tested on a finished sweater.
- Crochet Raglan Sweater Pattern at a Glance
- Yarn and Hook for the Crochet Raglan Sweater
- Sizing Your Crochet Raglan Sweater From One Measurement
- Crochet Raglan Sweater Yoke: Steps 1 to 9
- Crochet Raglan Sweater Body: Steps 10 to 12
- Crochet Raglan Sweater Sleeves: Steps 13 and 14
- Where a Crochet Raglan Sweater Goes Wrong
- Three More Free Crochet Raglan Sweater Patterns
- Crochet Raglan Sweater FAQ
- More Crochet Clothes and Layers to Make Next
Crochet Raglan Sweater Pattern at a Glance
The crochet raglan sweater has four parts: a neck chain that becomes the yoke, a body that you separate from the sleeves under the arms, a ribbed hem, and two sleeves worked down from the armholes. Here is the short version before the photos.
| Part | What you work | Count in the sample |
|---|---|---|
| Neck chain | Chain a multiple of 6 and join in a ring with a slip stitch | 78 chains |
| Round 1 | Back 12, corner, sleeve 13, corner, front 24, corner, sleeve 13, corner, back 12 | 82 double crochet and 4 chain spaces |
| Yoke rounds | Double crochet in each stitch and dc, ch 1, dc in each corner space | +2 stitches per section each round, 18 rounds |
| Under the arm | Skip the sleeve stitches and chain across the gap | Chain 4 under each arm |
| Body | Double crochet rounds, then three rounds of front and back post double crochet | 17 rounds in total, then 3 rib rounds |
| Sleeves | Rejoin at the underarm and crochet in rounds, then rib | 33 rounds, then 3 rib rounds |
Stitch multiple: the neck chain must be a multiple of 6. Divide it by 6 to get n. The sleeve sections are n stitches each, and the front and back sections are 2n minus 2. For 78 chains that gives 13 for each sleeve and 24 for the front and for the back, and four corner chains bring the total back to 78.
Stitches used: chain (ch), slip stitch (sl st), single crochet (sc), double crochet (dc), front post double crochet and back post double crochet for the rib. A chain 2 at the start of a round can stand in for the first double crochet, as the creator notes.
Yarn and Hook for the Crochet Raglan Sweater
The creator uses a 4.5 mm hook, which the creator calls a favourite, and says a 5 mm hook is fine too. The yarn is an acrylic blend, one lilac with sparkle and one white, and the materials list asks for 2.5 skeins of the main colour and 1.5 of the contrast. The skein size is not given, so we cannot turn that into yards.
A correction worth knowing: a 4.5 mm hook is the bottom of the Craft Yarn Council light (category 3) range of 4.5 to 5.5 mm, and the labels in the photo do not show a weight. The three free raglan sweaters we compared use 6.0 to 6.5 mm hooks with worsted or bulky yarn, so this sweater will be denser and warmer than theirs. Choose your hook after a swatch, not before.
| Pattern | Yarn | Hook | Yardage on the page |
|---|---|---|---|
| This crochet raglan sweater | Acrylic in two colours | 4.5 mm (5 mm optional) | 2.5 + 1.5 skeins, yards not given |
| Chestnut Raglan Top-Down Sweater | Bulky, Caron Macchiato Cakes | 6.5 mm body, 5 mm rib | 734 yd in XS to 1447 yd in 2XL; 954 yd in M |
| Amber Sweater | Worsted | 6 mm | 950 yd in XS to 1400 yd in 2XL; 1200 yd in M |
| Easy Crochet Raglan Sweater | Worsted, Lion Brand Mandala Ombre | 6 mm body, 5 mm rib | Chart is an image, no yardage in the text |
Across the two designers who print yardage, an adult size medium takes about 950 to 1,200 yd, and the whole range from extra small to 2XL runs from about 730 to 1,450 yd. Use that as a guide to how much yarn people really use, and buy a little extra of each colour, because stripes use yarn quickly.
Sizing Your Crochet Raglan Sweater From One Measurement
Here is the idea that makes every crochet raglan sweater easy to resize. The neck opening of this sweater is the head circumference, because the finished garment has to go over your head. The creator measures their own head at almost 23 in and chains 78 so the chain measures about that. That is 3.4 chains per inch, and it needs to be a multiple of 6.
Divide the chain by 6 to get the sleeve sections (13). Multiply that by 2 and take away 2 to get the front and back sections (24). Add them up with the four corners and you are back at 78. The creator counts the sections after every round, because the creator has lost a stitch or added one by mistake before.
| Neck chain (6n) | Neck opening at 3.4 chains per inch | Sleeve section (n) | Front and back section (2n – 2) | Double crochet in round 1 |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 66 | 19.5 in (49 cm) | 11 | 20 | 70 |
| 72 | 21.2 in (54 cm) | 12 | 22 | 76 |
| 78 | 23.0 in (58 cm) | 13 | 24 | 82 |
| 84 | 24.8 in (63 cm) | 14 | 26 | 88 |
| 90 | 26.5 in (67 cm) | 15 | 28 | 94 |
How to read it: pick the row that matches your head, with a little room, and use the sections in that row where the pattern says 13 and 24. The row of 78 chains is the sample, and its 82 double crochet in round 1 is 76 plain stitches plus the corner stitches (our arithmetic). The other rows are our own sums and were not tested.
You also need to know when to stop the yoke. The creator tries the work on and stops when the front and the back are about to touch under the arm. The sample was 19 in across, front or back, which makes 38 in around and matches the Craft Yarn Council medium (36 to 38 in bust). Here is the chart halved, which is our arithmetic, so you can aim for your own width.
| Size | Bust in the Craft Yarn Council chart (in) | Aim for this width across the front (in) |
|---|---|---|
| XS | 28 to 30 | 14 to 15 |
| S | 32 to 34 | 16 to 17 |
| M | 36 to 38 | 18 to 19 |
| L | 40 to 42 | 20 to 21 |
| XL | 44 to 46 | 22 to 23 |
| 2X | 48 to 50 | 24 to 25 |
The Craft Yarn Council women chart gives body measurements only and says nothing about ease, so decide how roomy you want your sweater. The creator likes a loose, flowing fit and chains 4 under each arm; a snug fit uses just 1.
Crochet Raglan Sweater Yoke: Steps 1 to 9
Work the yoke of this crochet raglan sweater in the round without turning, and join each round with a slip stitch. The photos show each stage, and you can compare your own work as it grows.
Step 1: Chain 78 for the neck
Make a slip knot, put it on a 4.5 mm hook and chain 78. Use your own multiple of 6 from the table if your head is a different size. Count the chains twice, because every later number depends on this one.
Step 2: Join the chain into a ring
Lay the chain flat so it is not twisted, then slip stitch into the first chain you made. A twist here shows in the neckline of the finished sweater, and it is hard to fix later. The creator checks it twice.
Step 3: Round 1: 12 double crochet across the back
Start in the middle of the back, because the colour changes there and the join will be hidden. A back section of 24 stitches halves to 12. Work a chain 2, which can stand in for the first double crochet, then double crochet in each of the next chains until you have 12. These 12 are half of the back; the other half comes at the very end of the round.
Step 4: Round 1: the first corner
For the corner, work a double crochet, chain 1 and another double crochet all into the same chain. This is the raglan line, and it is the only increase in the whole yoke. Then work 13 double crochet, one in each of the next 13 chains, for the first sleeve section.
Step 5: Round 1: the rest of the round
Make a second corner, then 24 double crochet across the front, a third corner, 13 for the other sleeve, a fourth corner and the last 12 double crochet across the back. Slip stitch into the top of the first double crochet. Count: 12 + 13 + 24 + 13 + 12 is 74 plain stitches, plus 8 corner stitches, which is 82 double crochet and 4 chain spaces (our count). The creator checks the sections after every round.
Step 6: Round 2: double crochet to each corner
Start the round the same way, then work a double crochet in every stitch until you reach a chain space. In each chain space work a double crochet, chain 1 and a double crochet. The most important point, which the creator stresses, is the double crochet right next to the corner: it is easy to skip, and skipping it makes the sleeve or the front start to shrink.
Because each corner adds one stitch to the section on either side, every section grows by 2 stitches per round, which is a total of 8 more stitches per round (our arithmetic). That is the check the creator gives: count the section between two corners after each round, and if the count is wrong, find the missing stitch before you go on.
Step 7: Change colour with a slip stitch
Stripes are optional. To change colour, slip stitch the new yarn through the first stitch and the loop on the hook, chain and carry on. The creator works two rounds of lilac and one of white but says you can change as often as you like. Hide the ends as you go: hold both tails along the top of the stitches and work over them. The creator cuts the old colour at the same level as the new one.
Step 8: Keep working rounds until front and back meet
From here it is round after round: double crochet in every stitch, corner in each chain space. The creator draws a small sketch of the sweater to explain the stopping point, which is when the front and the back touch under your arm. The sample took 18 rounds, which ended with 60 double crochet on the front and on the back, and 47 on each sleeve. Our arithmetic gives 60 and 49 (24 + 2 x 18 and 13 + 2 x 18), so we give both figures: follow the front and back count, and let the sleeve be a stitch or two off.
Step 9: Measure to check the fit
Lay the yoke flat and measure across. The creator’s sample is 19 in from side to side. That times 2 gives 38 in around, which the creator compares with a medium. A useful trick: the creator threads a piece of yarn between two corners, closing off the sleeve hole, and puts the yoke on. If the front and back touch under your arm, the yoke is done. You do not have to do this, but it saves a lot of unpicking.
Crochet Raglan Sweater Body: Steps 10 to 12
After the yoke, a crochet raglan sweater needs only plain rounds. The one step that needs care is the underarm, where the sleeves are separated from the body. After that you can relax, because there is no more shaping.
Step 10: Skip the sleeve and chain under the arm
Work up to the corner where the sleeve starts. Do not work the corner or the sleeve stitches, but chain 4 and continue at the next corner, working a double crochet there. The number of chains is up to you: one chain gives a snug fit, and the creator uses 4 for a loose, flowing sweater. Repeat the same on the other side.
On the next round, work one double crochet in each of the chains, so the 4 chains become 4 stitches. The body ring then has 60 + 60 + 4 + 4 = 128 stitches (our arithmetic for the sample).
Step 11: Work the body rounds
Keep working double crochet in every stitch, in rounds, until the sweater is the length you want. Try it on as you go. The creator made 17 rounds in total from the armhole, but that is the creator’s length, not a rule. When the length is right, you are ready for the rib.
Step 12: Finish the hem with post stitch rib
The hem is a small ribbing in white. Start with a slip stitch and a chain, work a few single crochet to set up, then alternate a front post double crochet and a back post double crochet around the whole hem. Each rib round starts with a slip stitch and a starting stitch, like the other rounds, and ends with a slip stitch. The creator works three rounds, and says you could stop at two or add a fourth. The setup stitches are described loosely, so our reading is a round of single crochet to begin.
Our total for the sample: the body ring has 128 stitches at the underarm, and the yoke before it holds 218 double crochet, which is 60 on the front and the back plus 49 on each sleeve by our arithmetic. These are our sums from the counts in the tutorial, and they are a handy check if you want to know that you are on track.
Crochet Raglan Sweater Sleeves: Steps 13 and 14
The sleeves of this crochet raglan sweater are worked in the round from the armhole, so you can try one on and stop at the length you want. They use the same stitches as the body.
Step 13: Join the yarn at the underarm
Turn to the armhole. Join the yarn in the middle of the underarm chains. Work as many stitches across this gap as you have chains (4), starting with single crochet and finishing with double crochet. Then double crochet across the sleeve stitches, and work a double crochet into the side of the stitches at each edge of the gap so the underarm has no hole. Slip stitch to join the round. For the sample that gives about 51 stitches (47 sleeve stitches and 4 underarm stitches), our count.
Step 14: Work the sleeve and finish with the cuff
Work double crochet rounds down the sleeve until it is as long as you want. The creator made 33 rounds from the underarm, and tried it on to check. Then work the same 3 rounds of front post and back post double crochet in white so the cuff matches the hem. Slip stitch, fasten off, repeat for the second sleeve, and weave in all the ends with a needle. The side that stays smooth and continuous is the front of the sweater, and the side with the colour changes is the back.
Where a Crochet Raglan Sweater Goes Wrong
Most trouble in a crochet raglan sweater comes from three places. Read them before you start round 2.
A section loses a stitch
The double crochet next to each corner is easy to miss, and missing one makes a section lose a stitch. Count the sections after every round: each should be 2 more than the round before. Fix it straight away, because the error shows as a crooked raglan line.
The neck is twisted
If the first chain ring is twisted, the neckline will have a half turn in it. Check the chain lies flat before you join, and again after the first round.
The fit is wrong at the underarm
The yoke is the only part you cannot easily change after the split, so try it on before you skip the sleeves. A 78 chain neck with a 38 in finished width is a medium, and the 4 chains under the arm add a loose fit. If you want a snug sweater, use fewer chains.
Three More Free Crochet Raglan Sweater Patterns
If you want a different fit, yarn or sizing chart, these three free designs are worth a look. We list only what is printed on their pages, and we say plainly when a number is missing.
| Pattern | Designer | Yarn and hook | Printed gauge and increase |
|---|---|---|---|
| Chestnut Raglan Top-Down Sweater | The Crochet Village | Bulky, 6.5 mm body and 5 mm rib | 11 dc and 8 rows = 4 in; 4 increase points, +12 stitches a round |
| Amber Sweater | The Crochet Village | Worsted, 6 mm hook | 13 hdc and 12 rows = 4 in; 4 increase points, +8 stitches a round |
| Easy Crochet Raglan Sweater | MJ’s Off The Hook Designs | Worsted, 6 mm body and 5 mm collar | 13 dc and 8 rounds = 4 in; starts at 84 stitches, +8 stitches a round |
What the numbers tell us: all three use four increase points, like this sweater, and add 8 or 12 stitches a round. Our tutorial adds 8 a round. They print gauges of 11 to 13 stitches over 4 in, while the 128-stitch body of the sample at 38 in is about 13.5 stitches over 4 in, which is close to the tightest of them, as you would expect with a 4.5 mm hook. Only the MJ’s page lists how many increase rounds each size needs (from 15 rounds for a small to 33 for a 4X, by its own chart), which is a useful guide if you want to plan your own sweater before you start.
A note on size charts: the Craft Yarn Council says its figures are guidelines, and we agree. Measure the person who will wear the sweater, not the label.
Crochet Raglan Sweater FAQ
Is a crochet raglan sweater good for beginners?
Yes. A crochet raglan sweater is built from the top down in one piece, so there is no sewing and no pieces to match up. You need chain, slip stitch and double crochet, plus front and back post stitches for the rib if you want it. The creator calls the method easy to do in any size.
How do I choose the size of a crochet raglan sweater?
Measure your head, then choose a neck chain that is a multiple of 6 and close to 3.4 chains per inch. Divide by 6 for the sleeve sections and use 2n minus 2 for the front and back. Stop the yoke when the front is half your bust measurement across. Use the tables above.
How much yarn does a crochet raglan sweater need?
The creator’s list is 2.5 skeins of the main colour and 1.5 of the contrast, but the skein size is not given. The free patterns we compared use about 950 to 1,200 yd for a size medium, with a full range of 734 to 1,447 yd from XS to 2XL.
How do I change colour in a crochet raglan sweater?
Slip stitch the new yarn through the first stitch of the round and chain as usual. Work over the tails as you go so there are fewer ends to weave in. Change in the middle of the back so the colour change is hardest to see.
How do I make the armholes bigger or smaller?
Change the number of chains under the arm. One chain gives a snug fit, and 4 gives a loose, relaxed one. Repeat the same number on both sides, and make the same number of stitches at the start of each sleeve.
How do I wash a crochet raglan sweater?
Follow the label on your yarn. The Lion Brand support page says acrylic should not be steam blocked, so use wet or spray blocking instead and lay the sweater flat to dry, so the stripes keep their shape.
More Crochet Clothes and Layers to Make Next
Once your crochet raglan sweater is done, you may want something to wear it with. Our crochet pullover sweater pattern is worked in six sizes in rows, which is a different way to build a sweater, the crochet vest pattern uses two squares, and the crochet leg warmers page covers the legs. For a smaller version, try the crochet baby cardigan, and for a matching wrap, the easy crochet scarf pattern. Browse all crochet clothes on the site.
Sources and standards: sizes from the Craft Yarn Council women chart; hook ranges from the Craft Yarn Council yarn weight system; comparison patterns from The Crochet Village Chestnut, The Crochet Village Amber and MJ's Off The Hook Designs; blocking guidance from Lion Brand support.
Pattern credit: this raglan sweater design comes from the crochet channel Yarnmaide.
